For those in the UK who enjoy walking in woodland, April is bluebell season. Bluebell woods, such as the celebrated Whippendell Wood near Watford, draw nature lovers to their spectacular displays. The French equivalent isn’t as pretty but, not surprisingly since we are discussing France, you can eat it!
Wild Asparagus Season
April in Burgundy is wild asparagus season. To the Anglo-Saxon palate some of the items in traditional French cuisine are not to our taste. There is an old and inaccurate joke that if it moves the French will eat it!
Rural France
In the past France comprised largely rural and often isolated communities living on what they could themselves produce. A lack of easily available meat in their diet as well as a variety of wars and invasions on their own territory made them experts in living off the land and using rather than discarding edible parts of the animal. Consequently hunting, fishing and foraging is still important in rural France. Wild asparagus and all sorts of mushrooms from local woodland are often available in markets all over the country.
Bath Asparagus or Ornithogalum Pyrenaicum
Wild asparagus has several names. In the UK it is often known as Bath asparagus and it is confined to small areas around Bath and the south of England. In France it is known as asperge sauvage, asperge des bois or aspergette but its botanical name is ornithogalum pyrenaicum. This plant is not a true asparagus and has to be distinguished from asparagus acutifolius which is a true wild asparagus found in Mediterranean and Pyrenean regions.
However, ornithogalum pyrenaicum is full of vitamins and minerals, high in fibre and low in both calories and sodium. It is quick and easy to cook, makes an excellent soup as well as being an addition to omelettes and salads.
Foraging in France
When foraging in France local knowledge is the key. The locations of prestigious mushrooms such as the girolle and chanterelle are a well guarded secret. However, for the intrepid explorer, there is always the possibility of coming across a wild asparagus wood and it is worth keeping a bag in your pocket just in case.
If you are lucky enough to find a mature wild asparagus wood, it may be swamped with plants. The shoots grow rapidly and should be snapped off just above the plant – do not pull the shoot as this will dislodge the plant. Leave the shorter shoots – those under about six inches (approx 15cm) and, for the health of the wood, do not over pick.
It is very easy to get carried away when foraging but never take more than you will use. The shoots can be open frozen and, as always, the sooner they are frozen the better they will be as maximum vitamins and minerals will be retained. Wash the shoots and then trim the bottom if necessary.
Cooking with Wild Asparagus
To make soup the shoots can be fried briefly with onion and garlic, boiled for about fifteen minutes at about two pints of water to a pound of shoots and then puréed. Bacon can also be added at the frying stage to give added flavour.
For other dishes, blanch or steam the shoots briefly before frying in garlic, bacon, and onion. They can be added to omelettes and fritattas and put in tarts and salads. They also complement toasted seeds and nuts.
The Joys of Foraging
There is something extremely satisfying about foraging for food. Hunting, fishing and foraging have always been the means of survival for our species and these activities link into our deep biological programming. There is an extra satisfaction in cooking and eating with ingredients that have either been grown, found or caught ourselves.
The popularity of allotments for vegetable growing as well as the growth in planting fruit trees and canes in private gardens is a sign that many people want to get back in touch with their roots – both literally and metaphorically! Strawberries and tomatoes are often grown in grow bags and planters in the smallest of gardens and runner beans have started to replace clematis and sweet peas for walls and obelisks.
Even if you are unlikely to find wild asparagus, autumn brings all sorts of fruit and berries which can be frozen, puréed and made into jams and chutneys. Many woods have nut bearing trees hidden within them. There are even foraging courses you can go on! So, start collecting a few jam jars and lids, get ready, get out there and get looking!
Frances Williams - Frances is an Autism specialist with post graduate qualifications but has had to take a career break. She is now a freelance writer. ...
Join the Conversation